Makalu Expedition by Helicopter was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed mount Makalu on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition.
The first attempt on mount Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California , who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated.
In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak. In the following spring, successfully ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days.
The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975.
Makalu West Face : It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain, then only it was succeeded in the final.
The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the “Gold ice-axe”.
The routes are of 4 parts: The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation’s rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation’s rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.
The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.
The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.
Trip Itinerary :
Day 01: Arrival Kathmand & Trasfer to hotel
Day 02: prepare for expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministry of tourism prepare for expedition
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar – camping
Day 05: Tumlingtar – Kuwapani
Day 06. Kuwapani – Chichila
Day 07: Chichila – Num
Day 08: Num- Seduwa
Day 09: Seduwa – Tashigaun
Day 10: Tashigaun – Khongma La (Danda)
Day 11: Khongmadanda – Mumfuk
Day 12: Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
Day 13: Yangle Khark -Merak
Day 14: Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
Day 15: Sersung – Makalu Base camp
May 2012 Day 16-47: Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
Day 48: Makalu BC – Mumbuck
Day 49: Mumbuck – Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50: Khongma La – Seduwa
Day 51: Seduwa – Chichila
Day 52: Chichila – Tumlingtar
Day 53: Tumlingtar – Kathmandu by flight
Day 54: Kathmandu
Day 55: Final Departure
Trip Cost includes:
1. 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast at standard Hotel..
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Lhasa, Gyantse & Tingri & Zhangmu (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp – Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7. Per person’s (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to ABC
8. Per person’s (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
9. Kathmandu – Lhasa fly & drive to (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members& Truck for the equipment
10. Peak permit for Everest North Col 8848m.
11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew’ insurance
14. ABC – Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
15. Satellite phone (Pay call).
16. Expedition T-shirts with Expedition label
17. Welcome dinner
Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
5. International departure tax.
6. Personal Expenses.
7. Medical and rescue insurance.
8. Personal Climbing equipment.
9. Bar bills & Beverage.
10. Medicine and first aid expenses
11. Garbage Deposit USD 3000 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage.
12. Walkie-Talkie.
13. Extra yak, Per Yak’s USD 150.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.
Extra serice if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit : US$ 30,000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep : US$ 4000.00
Rescue Jeep : USD 700 Per Jeep