In 1982 the first ascent of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3, 1982 by Johan Takes of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Takes climbed Changste without a permit.
1982 The first official ascent of Changste with a permit was completed 11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.
1983 The next ascent and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber Gino Casassa May 14, 1983 via the same route used by the Germans.
In1986 Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition. This expedition of eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit on May 10,11- 1986 again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier; which included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.
1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28, 1986. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.
1987 Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit on September 29, 1987 via the north face ice wall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.
Changtse is located adjacently north of Everest hence the name Changtse which is Tibetan for north peak. 2 other well-known peaks of the Everest-group; Lhotse (4th highest mountain in world) and Nuptse mean respectively south and west-peak. Changtse was first ascended in October 1982; officially by a German expedition; but in fact it had already been climbed by the Dutch climber Johan Taks; only 11 days before. I bet the Germans must have thought the peak was still virgin…. Taks was a member of the 1982 Dutch Everest-expedition (Tibetan side; east Rongbuk), and climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members. Nowadays the mountain receives little attention; only 1 or 2 (Chinese) additional expeditions have been listed.
Trip Itinerary :
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu – Preparing Expedition
Day 03: Kathmandu, Preparing Expedition & visas
Day 04: Drive to Kathmadu – Zangmu (2350m) hotel.
Day 05: Drive Nyalam hotel.
Day 06: acclimatization Hotel
Day 07: Drive Tingri – Hotel
Day 08: Drive to Base camp of Nojin Kangsang 7191m camping
Day 09: Acclimatization – camping
Day 10: Prepare yak for BC to ABC – camping
Day 11: Middle camp – camping
Day 12: Middle camp – ABC 5000m camping
Day 13-29: Climbing period of Changtse (7550m).
Day 30: Advance Base Camp – Base camp
Day 31: drive Base camp – Zhangmu
Day 32: Drive to Kathmandu
Day 33: Kathmandu
Day 34: Kathmandu
Day 35: Final Departure
Trip Cost includes:
1. 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast at standard Hotel..
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Lhasa, Gyantse & Tingri & Zhangmu (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp – Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7. Per person’s (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to ABC
8. Per person’s (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
9. Kathmandu – Lhasa fly & drive to (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members& Truck for the equipment
10. Peak permit for Everest North Col 8848m.
11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew’ insurance
14. ABC – Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
15. Satellite phone (Pay call).
16. Expedition T-shirts with Expedition label
17. Welcome dinner
Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
5. International departure tax.
6. Personal Expenses.
7. Medical and rescue insurance.
8. Personal Climbing equipment.
9. Bar bills & Beverage.
10. Medicine and first aid expenses
11. Garbage Deposit USD 250 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage.
12. Walkie-Talkie.
13. Extra yak, Per Yak’s USD 150.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.
Extra serice if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit : US$ 30,000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep : US$ 4000.00
Rescue Jeep : USD 700 Per Jeep